Knife Steel Types Explained: How to Choose the Right Steel for Your Knife
Written by Juan Arango | Former Colombian Army Infantry Officer
Last Updated: February 2026
Quick Answer: The best knife steel depends on how you'll use it. For EDC and general use, 154CM or S35VN offers a good balance of edge retention and corrosion resistance. For hard-use tactical and outdoor knives, 1095 carbon steel prioritizes toughness over rust resistance. For wet environments, look for high-chromium stainless like S30V or LC200N.
You're shopping for a knife and the product page says "154CM steel" or "1095 high carbon" or "S35VN." You have no idea what that means. Is one better than the other? Does it even matter?
Here's the honest answer: steel type matters less than most people think—but when it matters, it really matters. This guide will teach you what different steels actually do, how to match steel to your use case, and when to stop overthinking it.
🔪 Quick Steel Recommendations by Use
Need a recommendation right now?
EDC / General Purpose: 154CM, S35VN, 14C28N, VG-10
Tactical / Hard Use: 1095, D2, 3V
Hunting / Field Dressing: S30V, 154CM, VG-10
Wet Environments / Marine: LC200N, H1, S30V
Budget-Friendly: 8Cr13MoV, 14C28N, 420HC
Not sure? If the knife is from a reputable maker (TOPS, Benchmade, Spyderco, etc.), the steel they chose is probably right for that knife's purpose. Trust the design.
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Why Steel Matters (And When It Doesn't)
Steel affects four things:
Edge retention — How long it stays sharp
Toughness — Resistance to chipping and breaking
Corrosion resistance — How much it rusts
Ease of sharpening — How hard it is to restore the edge
Here's the catch: these properties trade off against each other. No steel is "best" at everything. A steel that holds an edge forever is usually harder to sharpen. A steel that never rusts often sacrifices toughness. Every steel is a compromise.
When steel choice really matters:
Hard use (batoning, prying, impact)
Wet or humid environments
Situations where you can't sharpen in the field
Specific tasks like skinning game or rescue work
When steel choice barely matters:
Light EDC tasks (opening boxes, cutting cordage)
Knives you sharpen regularly
Situations where blade shape and ergonomics matter more
The truth is, blade geometry and heat treatment often affect cutting performance more than steel type. A $50 knife with good heat treatment can outperform a $200 knife with sloppy heat treatment—even if the expensive knife has "better" steel.
The Four Things Steel Does
Edge Retention (How Long It Stays Sharp)
Edge retention is controlled by hardness and carbide structure. Harder steels with more carbides stay sharp longer—but they're also harder to sharpen when they do dull.
High edge retention steels: S30V, S35VN, M390, 20CV
Tradeoff: These steels require diamond or ceramic stones to sharpen. You can't touch them up with a cheap pocket sharpener.
Toughness (Resistance to Chipping and Breaking)
Toughness is roughly the inverse of hardness. Softer steels flex and absorb impact. Harder steels can chip or snap under stress.
High toughness steels: 1095, 3V, 5160, A2
Tradeoff: These steels dull faster. You'll sharpen more often, but the edge won't chip when you hit something hard.
Corrosion Resistance (Rust and Stain Resistance)
Corrosion resistance comes from chromium content. Steels with 13% or more chromium are classified as "stainless"—though no steel is truly stainproof.
High corrosion resistance steels: H1, LC200N, S30V, 154CM
Tradeoff: High-chromium steels often sacrifice toughness. The chromium carbides that prevent rust can also make the steel more brittle.
Ease of Sharpening
Softer steels with fewer hard carbides sharpen more easily. You can restore the edge quickly with basic tools.
Easy to sharpen steels: 1095, 14C28N, AUS-8, 420HC
Tradeoff: These steels dull faster. Easy sharpening usually means the edge doesn't last as long.
Understanding Rockwell Hardness (HRC)
You'll see specs like "RC 56-58" or "60-61 HRC" on knife product pages. This is Rockwell hardness—a measure of how resistant the steel is to deformation.
Typical knife hardness ranges:
| HRC Range | What It Means | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| 54-56 | Softer, tougher | Heavy choppers, machetes, hard-use knives |
| 56-58 | Balanced | Tactical knives, outdoor/survival, general use |
| 58-60 | Harder, better edge retention | EDC folders, kitchen knives, precision work |
| 60-62 | Very hard | Specialty knives, slicers, razors |
| 62+ | Extremely hard | Japanese kitchen knives, scalpels |
Important: The same steel can be heat treated to different hardnesses. A knife in 1095 at 56 HRC will behave very differently than 1095 at 60 HRC. This is why heat treatment matters as much as steel choice—and why reputable manufacturers are worth the money.
Carbon Steel vs. Stainless Steel
This is the most fundamental steel decision. Everything else is details.
Carbon Steel
Examples: 1095, 1080, 1075, O1, A2, 5160, 52100
Pros:
Extremely tough—absorbs impact without chipping
Easy to sharpen with basic tools
Takes a razor-sharp edge
Often cheaper than premium stainless
Cons:
Rusts if not maintained
Requires wiping dry after use
Needs occasional oiling for storage
Will develop a patina (some people like this)
Best for: Hard-use knives, bushcraft, survival, batoning, users who don't mind maintenance
Why TOPS uses 1095: Most TOPS knives are built for abuse. They chose 1095 because it survives impacts that would chip or snap harder, more brittle steels. The tradeoff is maintenance—wipe it down after use.
Stainless Steel
Examples: 154CM, S30V, S35VN, VG-10, 440C, AUS-8
Pros:
Corrosion resistant—won't rust with normal use
Low maintenance
Good for humid climates and wet environments
Cons:
Generally harder to sharpen than carbon steel
Can be more brittle at high hardness
Premium stainless steels are expensive
Best for: EDC, marine environments, humid climates, users who want low maintenance
The Middle Ground: Semi-Stainless and Tool Steels
Examples: D2, M4, CPM-3V, CruWear
These steels have some chromium but not enough to qualify as true stainless (13%+). They offer a compromise: better corrosion resistance than carbon steel, better toughness than most stainless.
D2 is the most common. It's called "semi-stainless" because it has about 12% chromium—just under the threshold. It won't rust as fast as 1095, but it's not maintenance-free either.
Common Knife Steels Explained
Budget Steels ($)
These steels get the job done at a low price point. With good heat treatment, they perform surprisingly well.
8Cr13MoV — Chinese stainless steel, roughly equivalent to AUS-8. Decent all-around performance at very low cost. Found on many budget folders. Easy to sharpen, adequate edge retention, good corrosion resistance.
420HC — Basic stainless used by Buck and others. With Buck's heat treatment, it performs well above its price point. Easy to sharpen, adequate edge retention for light use.
1095 — Simple carbon steel with ~0.95% carbon. Extremely tough, easy to sharpen, takes a keen edge. Rusts easily—requires maintenance. The workhorse of hard-use fixed blades.
AUS-8 — Japanese stainless, similar to 8Cr13MoV. Good corrosion resistance, easy to sharpen, moderate edge retention. Popular on mid-range production knives.
Mid-Range Steels ($$)
These steels offer a significant step up in performance without premium prices.
154CM — American stainless steel, considered an upgrade to 440C. Good balance of edge retention, toughness, and corrosion resistance. Not too difficult to sharpen. Used by Benchmade and many other quality manufacturers. Rockwell hardness typically 60-61 HRC.
VG-10 — Japanese stainless with added vanadium for slightly better toughness. Takes an extremely sharp edge. Popular on Spyderco knives and quality kitchen knives.
D2 — Tool steel with ~12% chromium (semi-stainless). Excellent edge retention, some rust resistance, but harder to sharpen than most steels. Requires expertise to get a fine edge.
14C28N — Swedish stainless from Sandvik. Excellent ease of sharpening, good corrosion resistance, reasonable edge retention. Great value steel for the price.
Premium Steels ($$$)
These are the "super steels" with optimized properties, usually made using powder metallurgy.
S30V — Developed by Crucible Industries specifically for high-end knives. Excellent edge retention, good corrosion resistance, reasonable toughness. For years, this was THE standard for premium folders.
S35VN — Improved version of S30V with niobium added. Slightly tougher, slightly easier to sharpen, similar edge retention. The current benchmark for premium production knives.
M390 — Austrian super steel from Böhler-Uddeholm. Among the best edge retention available. Excellent corrosion resistance. Found on high-end production and custom knives.
20CV — American equivalent to M390, made by Crucible. Essentially identical performance.
Specialty Steels
3V / CPM-3V — Extremely tough tool steel. Used on large choppers and hard-use fixed blades where impact resistance is critical. Harder to sharpen but nearly indestructible.
LC200N — Nitrogen-based stainless with exceptional corrosion resistance. Won't rust even in saltwater. Used on dive knives and marine applications.
H1 — The ultimate in rust resistance—essentially cannot corrode. Used by Spyderco on their Salt series. Tradeoff is poor edge retention. Great for diving and marine use, but limited for tasks requiring sustained edge retention.
Magnacut — New steel (2021) designed by metallurgist Larrin Thomas to balance all properties. Achieves high toughness AND high corrosion resistance by eliminating chromium carbides. Considered a breakthrough, but still relatively rare.
| Steel | Edge Retention | Toughness | Corrosion | Sharpening | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1095 | ★★☆☆☆ | ★★★★★ | ★☆☆☆☆ | ★★★★★ | $ |
| 8Cr13MoV | ★★☆☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★☆ | $ |
| 14C28N | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★★★ | $ |
| AUS-8 | ★★☆☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★☆ | $ |
| 420HC | ★★☆☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★★ | $ |
| D2 | ★★★★☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★☆☆☆ | $$ |
| 154CM | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★☆☆ | $$ |
| VG-10 | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★☆☆ | $$ |
| S30V | ★★★★☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★☆☆ | $$$ |
| S35VN | ★★★★☆ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★☆☆ | $$$ |
| M390 / 20CV | ★★★★★ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★★ | ★★☆☆☆ | $$$ |
| 3V | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★★ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★☆☆☆ | $$$ |
| LC200N | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★★ | ★★★☆☆ | $$$ |
Ratings are relative to other knife steels, not absolute measures.
Matching Steel to Your Use Case
EDC / General Purpose
Priority: Balance of edge retention and corrosion resistance
You'll use this knife for everyday tasks—opening packages, cutting cordage, minor utility work. You want something that stays sharp through a week of light use and doesn't rust sitting in your pocket.
Recommended: S35VN, 154CM, 14C28N, VG-10
Tactical / Self-Defense
Priority: Toughness and reliability
A defensive knife needs to work when your life depends on it. Edge retention matters less than knowing the blade won't snap or chip under stress.
Recommended: 1095, 154CM, D2, S30V
Hunting / Field Dressing
Priority: Ease of sharpening and corrosion resistance
You'll be making many cuts through hide and meat, and the blade will get wet with blood and fluids. You need to be able to touch up the edge in the field.
Recommended: S30V, 154CM, VG-10, 14C28N
Hard Use / Bushcraft / Batoning
Priority: Toughness above all else
You're going to beat on this knife. Baton wood, pry things, strike ferro rods. The blade needs to absorb impact without chipping.
Recommended: 1095, 3V, A2, O1, 5160
Marine / Wet Environments
Priority: Corrosion resistance
Saltwater destroys most steels. If you're diving, boating, or working near the ocean, you need steel that won't rust even with minimal maintenance.
Recommended: H1, LC200N, S30V (with diligent rinsing)
Budget-Conscious
Priority: Value for money
You want a knife that works without spending premium prices. Focus on reputable manufacturers with good heat treatment rather than chasing expensive steel.
Recommended: 14C28N (best budget value), 8Cr13MoV, 420HC (from Buck or other quality makers)
What Steel Doesn't Tell You
Heat Treatment Matters More Than Steel Type
The same steel, heat treated by different manufacturers, can perform completely differently. Good heat treatment optimizes the steel's potential. Bad heat treatment wastes it.
This is why brand reputation matters. TOPS, Benchmade, Spyderco, and other quality makers have dialed in their heat treatment over decades. A TOPS knife in 1095 will perform better than a no-name knife in S30V with sloppy heat treatment.
Blade Geometry Affects Cutting More Than Steel
A knife with thin, well-designed geometry in "mediocre" steel will often cut better than a thick, poorly-designed blade in premium steel.
Edge angle matters too. According to metallurgist Larrin Thomas, reducing your edge angle from 50 degrees (25 per side) to 20 degrees (10 per side) can increase edge retention by roughly 5x—far more than switching steel types.
The $40 Knife Problem
A $40 knife in 8Cr13MoV with good heat treatment and geometry can outcut a $200 knife in S35VN with poor design. Don't assume expensive steel = better knife.
Diminishing Returns
The difference between budget steel and mid-range steel is significant. The difference between mid-range and premium is smaller. The difference between premium and super-premium is barely noticeable for most users.
If you're not sure you need S90V, you probably don't.
Maintenance by Steel Type
Carbon Steels (1095, O1, 5160, etc.)
Wipe dry immediately after use
Apply light oil (mineral oil, camellia oil) before storage
Don't leave in a leather sheath long-term (leather holds moisture)
Patina is normal and actually protective—don't fight it
Sharpen with any stones or ceramic—these steels aren't picky
Stainless Steels (154CM, S30V, VG-10, etc.)
Rinse and dry after heavy use or exposure to salt/acids
No oiling required for most stainless
Can be stored in sheaths without issue
Use diamond or ceramic stones for harder steels (S30V and above)
Softer stainless (AUS-8, 8Cr13MoV) sharpens easily on any medium
Coated Blades
Many tactical knives have black coatings (DLC, Cerakote, traction coating) that protect the underlying steel. Keep in mind:
Coating protects but wears off with use, especially on the edge
Once coating wears, treat the blade according to the underlying steel type
Coating is cosmetic and functional, but not a substitute for proper steel selection
Frequently Asked Questions
-
There is no best steel—only best steel for a specific use. 1095 is "best" for a hard-use fixed blade. S35VN is "best" for a low-maintenance EDC folder. H1 is "best" for a dive knife. Match the steel to your needs.
-
Diminishing returns kick in quickly. The jump from budget to mid-range steel (e.g., 8Cr13MoV to 154CM) is noticeable. The jump from mid-range to premium (154CM to S35VN) is smaller. Most users won't notice the difference between premium and super-premium steels.
-
Yes, with the right tools. You'll need diamond or ceramic stones—your grandfather's Arkansas stone won't cut it. It takes longer than sharpening 1095, but it's absolutely doable.
-
Heat treatment. Different manufacturers heat treat the same steel to different hardnesses and with different techniques. A knife in 154CM from Benchmade may feel different than 154CM from another maker.
-
Not really. What matters is the specific steel type and the manufacturer's heat treatment. American, Japanese, and German steels all include excellent options. A Chinese knife in S35VN with good heat treatment will outperform an American knife in mystery steel.
-
Generally no—that's the point of stainless. But if you're storing a knife long-term or live in an extremely humid environment, a light wipe of oil won't hurt.
The Bottom Line
Steel is one variable among many. A knife's performance depends on:
Blade geometry and design
Heat treatment quality
Steel type
Edge angle and maintenance
User skill and technique
Don't obsess over steel type to the exclusion of everything else. A well-designed knife in "modest" steel, properly maintained, will serve you better than a poorly-designed knife in super steel.
That said, understanding steel helps you make smarter purchases. Now you know what 1095 vs. 154CM actually means—and when each one makes sense.
Ready to find your next knife? shop our knives
Still have questions? Email Juan—I personally answer every message.
Sources & Further Reading
Knife Steel Nerds (knifesteelnerds.com) — Larrin Thomas, PhD metallurgist. The most technically rigorous resource on knife steel. His steel ratings and research informed much of this guide.
Crucible Industries — Manufacturer of CPM steels (S30V, S35VN, 3V, etc.). Their data sheets provide official specs.
Blade HQ Steel Guide — Good overview with practical buying advice.
KnifeCenter Steel Guide — Another solid reference from a major retailer.
TOPS Knives — Manufacturer specs and reasoning behind their steel choices.